Wednesday, March 7, 2012

LAMB: This is first of a few recipes in cooking lamb racks.

RACK OF LAMB WITH BEAN RAGOUT AND LAMB JUS:



2 x 10-14 oz. lamb racks

8 tbsp. lamb stock; see recipe

cooking oil

salt and pepper


bean ragout:

1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 large onion, chopped
4 shallots, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
4 tbsp. butter
4 cups chicken stock
1 lb. fresh cranberry beans, shelled , or other beans as preferred
6 sprigs thyme + 1 sprig rosemary
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp. tomato paste
salt and pepper



To make bean ragout: Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat and cook carrots, onion, shallots and garlic for 3-4 minutes. Add tomato paste and mix in well. Tie herbs together with kitchen string and add it into the pan together with the beans and the chicken stock. Cook mixture without cover, until liquid is reduced by two-thirds. Add salt and pepper to taste. Allow beans to cool down and absorb the cooking liquid and seasoning during cooling.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a heavy skillet over high heat, heat 2 tbsp. oil until hot. Sear lamb racks, fats side down, for a few minutes until browned and add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer lamb to a rack in roasting pan. Roast for about 8-10 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes; then slice each rack into 3 chops for serving.

To make lamb jus: Take out 8 tbsp. of lamp stock and bring it to a simmer in a small saucepan. Cook uncovered until liquid is reduced to 4 tbsp.

To serve: Arrange bean ragout on a heated serving plate. Place 3 lamb chops on top of beans decoratively and drizzle lamb jus around to serve.





LAMB STOCK:



6 lamb bones

2 veal bones

trimmings from 4 lamb racks**

trimming from 2 veal racks**

2 onions, cut into large chunks

3 carrots, cut into large chunks

2 cloves garlic, crushed

4 sprigs thyme

10 whole peppercorns

1 tbsp oil


** trimmings of racks and bones are available at the butcher’s shop**.


In a large heavy-bottomed stock pot, heat 1 tbsp. oil over medium high heat, brown bones and trimmings without stirring, in batches if necessary, until they are well browned. Remove with tongs and set aside. Add vegetables to pan and cook until they are caramelized. Arrange bones and trimmings on top of vegetables and pour in 10 quarts of water.

Bring to a steady simmer and skim off the foam that rises to the top. Add thyme, garlic and peppercorns. Cook stock for 5 hours. Turn off heat and let the mixture sit for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine cheesecloth. Chill and refrigerate until needed.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

LAMB: If you like roast leg of lamb, you will enjoy this relatively fool-proof recipe.

APROCOT GLAZED LEG OF LAMB:



1 whole leg of lamb, bone in

salt and pepper

1 tsp. ground rosemary

1 tsp. ground thyme


glaze:

1 cup apricot jam
juice of ½ lemon
1 tbsp. brandy




Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.

Rub leg of lamb generously with salt and freshly-ground black pepper, then with the thyme and rosemary.

Place lamb in a roasting pan and roast for 25-30 minutes per pound or according to degree of doneness indicated by the meat probe or instant-read meat thermometer.

Put jam in a small saucepan over low heat and cook until jam has melted; then add in lemon juice and brandy. During the last half hour of cooking, brush lamb with apricot glaze repeatedly.

Let roast rest for 10 to 15 minutes before carving.

LAMB: Another easy and delicious way to serve leg of lamb.

BROIL BONELESS LEG OF LAMB WITH HERBS:



3 ½ lb. boneless leg of lamb


marinade:

1 ½ cups dry white wine
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ cup olive oil
6 cloves garlic
2 tsp. dried rosemary, crumbled
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. fresh ground black pepper



Place marinade ingredients in a large leak-proof and re-sealable plastic bag, shaking to mix well. Add lamb leg. Seal bag and let lamb marinate overnight in the refrigerator. Flip bag over at least once while marinating.

Remove lamb from fridge at least 2 hours before cooking to allow meat to come to room temperature.

Preheat broiler. Transfer lamb to a rack in the roasting pan and place pan 4-5 inches from source of heat. Broil lamb for 5-8 minutes on each side for medium rare.

Remove to cutting board. Cover and let stand at least 5 minutes before carving. Carve to serve.

LAMB: This is an easy to follow recipe that produces excellent result at much lower cost than roasting lamb racks.

ROAST LEG OF LAMB WITH APPLE STUFFING:



1 leg of lamb, bone removed, 4-5 lbs

3-4 tsp. salt

2 grated apples

½ cup bread crumbs

½ tsp. crushed dried rosemary

1 tsp. crushed dried mint

2 tbsp. butter, softened

tbsp. cornstarch

juice mixture--1 can frozen pineapple-grapefruit concentrate, mixed with 1½ cups water


marinade:

1 cup white wine
½ of above juice mixture
1 tbsp. oil



Spread open lamb leg and rub salt to taste all over the interior where the bone has been removed. Combine ½ juice mixture with apples, crumbs, rosemary, mint and butter and spread over inside of the roast. Roll lamb back into original leg shape and tie with twine. Season outside with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer lamb to a glass dish large enough to hold it.

Mix marinade ingredients together and pour over the meat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, turning occasionally.

Preheat over to 450 degrees F. Remove lamb, reserving the marinade, and transfer it to a rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 15-20 minutes to brown skin. Reduce heat to 325 degrees F. and continue roasting for 2 hours more or until internal temperature registers 140 for rare, 145 for medium rare and 160 for medium/well done. Baste lamb frequently with the marinade. Remove lamb from oven and let it rest, covered with foil, for 10 minutes.

Pour off excess fat from roasting pan and place it over medium heat on stove. Skim off more fat if necessary and scrape down all the brown particles with a spatula. Add in reserved marinade and bring to a boil.

Mix corn starch with 2 tbsp. water and pour it into liquid in pan. Cook until boiling and thickened, stirring constantly. Cook 1 minute. Slice meat and serve with sauce.

Monday, March 5, 2012

CHINESE COOKING: This is another standard dish in traditional Chinese restaurants serving "Chiu Chow" cuisines. I had made some changes to it to make it less fatty for serving at home.

CHINESE STYLE BRAISED DUCK WITH “LO/SOY” SAUCE鹵水鴨:



1 ducking, about 4-5 lbs. in weight

¼ cup honey

1½ cups dark soy sauce

6-8 cups water

4 oz. Chinese brick sugar

3 pieces sliced fresh ginger

½ pkg. store-bought “lo” ingredients****

¼ cup Chinese “Mui Kuei Liew” or rose-wine, may use dry Shirley to substitute


garlic dipping sauce:

4 tsp. very-finely chopped garlic
2 tsp. sugar
6 tbsp. Chinese rice vinegar
½ tsp. dried chill flakes


**** “Lo/soy” sauce ingredients are available in pre-packaged form in Chinese supermarkets. If preferred, make up your own bag of spices. Use a “fish-cooking bag” available at the Chinese supermarket, or a double thickness of cheesecloth to wrap and tie the spices together. The spice mix: 3 pieces dried tangerine peel, 2 to 3 star anise pods, 1 tsp. black peppercorns, 2 tsp. Sichuan peppercorns, 1 tbsp. fennel seeds, 1 tsp. clove & a 5 x 2-inch cinnamon stick, broken up. ****


Preheat oven to 475 degrees F. place duck on a rack in the roasting pan. Add about 1-inch water in the pan. Roast duck for 20-25 minutes to rid the skin of much of its fat. Remove from oven, brush skin all over with honey and let stand 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the soy sauce, 6 cups water, brick sugar and ginger in a large heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Put lo/soy ingredients--either home-made or store bought--into a clean muslin bag or “fish-cooking” bag and drop the bag into the boiling liquid. Reduce heat and simmer gently for 15-20 minutes. Add wine and taste for saltiness, adding a little salt if needed, or extra sugar and water to suit personal taste. Bring sauce back to a gentle boil again and add the duck, breast side up. Make sure the duck is completely immersed in the sauce. Cover pot and simmer very gently for 30-45 minutes, or until tested done.

Remove pan from heat, turn duck over to breast side down and let it stand in the sauce for 30 minutes. Turn over to soak the other side for another 30 minutes.

Mix dipping sauce ingredients together, dissolving sugar and adding extra boiled water if necessary to adjust for taste. Carve duck into serving pieces. Pour over some lo sauce and serve with dipping sauce on the side.

CHINESE COOKING: This duck recipe has been a particular favourite with my family for close to 30 years. Please try it if you like duck.

BRAISED DUCK WITH TARO芋頭炆鴨:



1 duckling, about 3 -4 lbs. in weight

1 ½ lbs. taro***

2 cloves garlic

2 slices fresh ginger & 2 stalks green onion

2 tbsp. sugar + salt to taste

1 tbsp. dark soy sauce

cooking oil for deep-frying

½ cup Chinese “chap gum” sauce—if not available, substitute with ¾ portion of “Chu Hau” sauce & ¼ portion of hoisin sauce


***Taro is a Chinese root vegetable, available from Chinese supermarket; “Chap-gum” & other sauces are also to be found there. ***



Rinse and pat dry duckling. Rub skin with soy sauce and let it stand 15 minutes; then repeat rubbing. Peel taro and slice into ¼-inch thick pieces.

Heat enough oil in wok or large non-stick saucepan for deep-frying until very hot. Add duck and deep-fry until skin is golden brown. Remove duck and drain. Deep-fry taro pieces in hot oil until golden; remove with tongs and drain on paper towels.

Drain off all but 1 tbsp. oil and reserve it for other uses. Heat wok until hot and stir-fry ginger and garlic. Mix chap-gum sauce with the sugar and add into wok. Add ducking; then turn it over and over to coat with sauce. Pour in enough water to cover duck. Bring mixture to a boil; then add salt, and taste liquid to adjust seasoning.

Cover wok, reduce heat to medium low and simmer duck for 30 minutes. Add taro and simmer together for 20-30 minutes more, or until duck and taro are both tender. Remove duck and let cool slightly until able to handle. Cut duck up into serving pieces and arrange into original duck shape on a serving platter. Put taro around duck and pour sauce over to serve.

Sunday, March 4, 2012

CHINESE COOKING: This is another recipe for braised duck that used to be traditionally served in restaurants, but not any more. So it is a good idea to cook it at home if you are a duck lover.

DUCK BRAISED WITH CHINESE CABBAGE紹菜扒鴨:



1 duckling, about 3 lbs. in weight

1 ½ lbs. long white Chinese cabbage

1 tbsp. dark soy sauce

cooking oil for deep-frying


duck-braising ingredients:

1 piece each of fresh ginger, crushed & dried tangerine peel
2 stalks green onion
2 star anise pods
1 ½ tsp. each salt & sugar
1 tbsp. each rice wine & dark soy sauce
3 cups water


seasoning:

1 tbsp. oyster-flavoured sauce
dash of white pepper and sesame oil
1 tsp. each sugar, tapioca starch and wine



Rinse and pat dry duck. Rub skin all over with soy sauce. Let stand 15 minutes and repeat. In wok or large saucepan, heat enough cooking oil for deep frying over high heat until hot and tested ready. Deep-fry duck for 3-4 minutes, turning over once, until skin is well-browned.

Place duck in heavy saucepan. Add braising ingredients and simmer duck for 1 to 1.5 hours or until it is fork tender. Remove duck and let cool slightly. Adjust seasoning and reserve cooking liquid. Remove back bone from duck and arrange it back into its original shape, in the centre of a large serving platter and keep warm.

Remove outer tough leaves from Chinese cabbage and place it in a saucepan. Pour in ½ cup braising liquid and enough water to barely cover. Bring to a boil and simmer cabbage for 5-10 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and cut cabbage into long segments. Arrange cabbage on the outer rim of the serving platter surrounding the duck.

Bring ½ cup of reserved braising liquid and seasoning ingredients to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook until slightly thickened; then pour sauce over duck and cabbage to serve.

CHINESE COOKING: Braised duck is very traditional in Chinese cooking. It is characterized by cooking the duck first, deboning it, then stewing it until tender with whatever the acccompaning ingredient is. Chestnuts, even though labour-intensive to cook, go well with stewed duck.

BRAISED DUCK WITH CHESTNUTS栗子炆鴨:



1 duckling, about 3 lbs. in weight

1 lb. chestnuts

cooking oil for deep-frying

1 tbsp. dark soy sauce

1 tsp sugar

2 cups water


duck-braising ingredients:

1 tbsp. each salt & rice wine
2 stalks green onion
1 small piece each fresh ginger, crushed & dried tangerine peel & star anise pod
1 tbsp. each dark soy sauce & oyster-flavoured sauce


seasoning:

½ tsp. sesame oil
dash of white pepper


1 tsp tapioca starch mixed with 1 tbsp. water



Rinse duck and pat dry. Rub duck skin with soy sauce, let stand 15 minutes; then repeat. Heat enough oil for deep-frying in wok or large non-stick pan over high heat until hot and tested ready. Deep-fry duck until skin is well-browned all over.

Place duck in a large saucepan. Add braising ingredients and enough water to cover; and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for1 hour. Remove duck from pot and reserve 1 cup cooking liquid. Let cool. Remove back bone from duck with a sharp knife and set it aside.

To cook chestnuts: Make a slit or an X on the flat side of each chestnut before cooking them in enough water to cover for 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat and scoop out a few to work with while they are hot. Use a sharp knife to remove shells and skins. Repeat with the rest of the chestnuts. Cook peeled chestnuts in 2 cups water with 1 tsp. sugar until tender. If preferred, store-bought canned or packaged chestnut can be used to substitute.

Heat wok with 1 tbsp. oil until very hot and add in reserved cooking liquid. Bring to a boil; then add in seasoning ingredients. Adjust seasoning to taste; then return duck and chestnuts. Simmer mixture together for 10 minutes.

Cool duck slightly; then cut duck into serving pieces and arrange into original duck shape on serving platter surrounding by the chestnuts. Add starch solution to cooking liquid to thicken; then pour sauce over duck to serve.

CHINESE COOKING: If you enjoy BBQ duck at Chinese restaurants, you should try this recipe to reproduce a very tasty duck at home. The recipe is not complicated but it's a bit time-consuming to cook it at home, and the result is well-worth the effort.

ROAST DUCK “PIPA”**** STYLE琵琶鴨:



1 duck, about 4-5 lbs. in weight

2-3 tsp. salt


skin-treatment mixture:

1 cup hot water
2 ½-3 tbsp. red or dark Chinese vinegar
3 tbsp. honey
1 tbsp rice wine


basting sauce:

1 tbsp. brown bean sauce
2 tsp. each hoisin sauce, sesame paste & wine
1 tsp. sugar
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tsp. light soy sauce


****”pipa” is a Chinese musical instrument that is flat with long neck and a body that is similar to a guitar’s shape****



Rinse duck, pat dry and remove excess fat. Rub with salt all over cavity, and let stand 1-2 hours.

In a large stock pot, bring 8-10 cups water to a vigorous boil. Immerse duck in boiling water and boil for 2 minutes, turning frequently.

Tie a kitchen string under and around the wings and hang duck up in a cool and well-ventilated place to dry for 5 hours.

Cut duck open through the back bone, pressing duck to flatter with palm. Mix skin-treatment ingredients together and brush it all over duck repeatedly. Hang duck up to dry for 4 hours.

Rub basting sauce all over duck cavity and let it marinate for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Place duck on a rack over a roasting pan of water. Roast duck, skin side up, for 20 minutes. Reduce oven to 350 degrees F. Turn duck over and roast for 25 minutes. Roast another 30 minutes more, during which time turn duck over to breast-or-cavity-side-up every 10 minutes. Turn oven to broil and crisp duck skin for 2 minutes.

Cut duck up into serving pieces but arrange pieces back into original duck shape to serve.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

CHINESE COOKING: To cook meat and fowl in a "lo/soy" solution is a very traditional Chinese cooking method. Squabs cooked this way are tender and tasty, and the "lo/soy" solution can be kept frozen and reused over and over again.

SQUABs COOKED IN “LO/SOY” SAUCE:



2 squabs

red food colouring, optional

2 oz dark rich Chinese rice wine


“lo/soy” sauce marinade:****

3 cups light soy sauce
½ cup dark soy sauce
½ lb. rock sugar or to taste
1 pkg. of store-bought “lo” sauce ingredients, or
a bouquet garni containing--3 star anise, 1 piece of dry tangerine peel, 4 slices ginger
water if needed



Bring a large pot of water to a boil and immerse squab in water for 30 seconds. Remove and rinse squab under running water. Drain well. Rub with a little food colouring if preferred.

Put soy/lo sauce marinade ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Simmer 30 minutes and adjust for sweetness or saltiness, adding more rock sugar or more soy sauce according to taste. Add rice wine and mix in well.

Add squab into simmering soy/ lo sauce solution. Turn heat to low so it is barely simmering. Cover pot and let soak for 15 minutes. Check for doneness by piercing thigh with a skewer. If juices run clear, squab is cooked.

Carve each squab into serving size and pour a little of the lo-sauce on top to serve.



****”Lo/soy” sauce braising is a traditional method in cooking a variety of meat. The meat is usually pre-cooked, then added into the ‘lo/soy solution”. After bringing back the solution to a boil, heat is turned off, so that the meat absorbs the taste and colour of the sauce without being cooked any further. Chicken and squabs are not precooked, and are added into the “lo solution” as raw meat. After bringing solution back to the boil, heat is reduced to barely shimmering so that the chicken or fowl is slowly being cooked without boiling, while absorbing the flavour and taking on the colour of the lo solution. It usually takes 1 to 1.5 hours to cook a chicken in this way. Half way through the cooking, turn chicken over. After 1 hour of cooking, check for doneness by inserting a skewer into the thigh, if juices run clear, chicken is cooked

After using, the “lo/soy solution” is carefully strained to remove impurities, and then cooled. It is kept frozen until being used the next time to flavour meat and fowl. When re-using the lo solution, bring it to a fast boiling first, then adjust seasoning and colour by adding more soy sauce and sugar and water as needed to adjust for sweetness and saltiness, before adding the meat to be cooked. ****